December/ January Update

Well, to start on a positive note, we can officially say that our Christmas party was a huge success!!! Our 60th Anniversary mugs were sent out and we received many positive comments about them and a toast was held to our members. The party hosted fancy dress, a slightly easier quiz than last year, handmade hats and scarves (with the collapsible witches hat being crowned the star of the show), tales from past Guild members and the unveiling of the 60th Anniversary banner, designed by Dot Seddon.

After Christmas our spirits were soon dampened by the third lock-down, however, it appears that the extra time at home has once again allowed many members more time to dedicate to crafting. Our Zoom meetings are still going strong, check out our meetings schedule on the website for the up and coming subjects. If there is a subject you would like to see covered then please get in touch with the committee on the Guild e-mail address as we are always open to suggestions.

Members Fame

One of our members, Laura, who came to us in Autumn 2019 as a pretty new spinner has made it into the Yorkshire Post following her success of producing peg loom rugs from her own flock of sheep. As a Guild we are extremely proud of her achievement, especially so as Laura had only begun spinning on a drop spindle a few months before meeting three of our members at an open day at Sledmere house last September. From there we roped Laura into the Guild where she has found her wings and positively flown with her new found knowledge and skills. Please read the full story here (You may need to Register with Yorkshire post to read the story). Pictured below is one of Laura’s first peg loom rugs made with Leicester Longwool Fleece.

Leicester Longwool peg loom rug LC

November Update

I think I can honestly say that we are all actively embracing technology and the potential it holds to keep us all in touch and to maintain the creativity we all get from our usual Guild meeting at the museum. The focussed Wednesday evening discussions seem to be proving popular, even more so now that they are available for members to watch on our new Guild ‘Catch Up’ Channel in our members only area on our website.

We also had our first external speaker at our Monthly meeting on Saturday 21st November, Lesley Horden of Skyrack Angoras who gave us a talk on the history of the rabbit and the angora fur trade as well as basic care of an angora rabbit. This was a first for both the York Guild and for Lesley and her talk was very well delivered and received. Hopefully, Lesley will now be able to offer talks to more Guilds further afield than before as well as promoting the sale of Skyrack angora fur for spinners to have a try at.

In addition, the weaving group are holding two meetings per month and the dyeing group are holding discussions via e-mail. If members wish to join either of these addition special interest groups please get in touch on the Guild e-mail address and we will put you in touch with Linda or Mary accordingly.

Our 60th Anniversary mugs have been dispatched and should be arriving with members very shortly in time for the Christmas meeting. Despite the lack of celebrations in person, we are determined to mark the year somehow.

We are extremely pleased to have two new members join us, despite us still being unable to meet in person. We hope that they will feel the benefit of membership from our newly adapted ways of sharing knowledge and information.

September/ October Update

I think we are all resigned to the fact that we will not be getting together for a good while now so decisive action has been taken by the committee regarding plans for our Zoom meetings going forward. Following a survey of members opinions, we have decided to continue holding our monthly meetings on the third Saturday of each month and maintaining the balance of a speaker one month and general discussion and show and tell the next. In addition, we are also holding weekly meetings on a Wednesday night which will focus on more specific topics. So far, quite a few members have hosted a talk and the response has been extremely positive. This meeting format will be reviewed at the end of the year.

It seems that the new trend is ‘challenges’ with members undertaking specific projects with a theme via the Online Guild as well as challenges set by our members. For this years Christmas meeting the challenge is to produce a scarf that will be worn and shown at the meeting and it seems some members are well underway with this.

Our upcoming meeting topics include; spinning a fine yarn, natural dyeing, weaving software, using your hand-spun, blended fibres and spinning equipment. Feel free to join us with any questions, comments or suggestions as these themed meetings have yielded some very interesting, inspirational and educational discussions.

August Update

At August’s Zoom meeting we were joined by Dr John Parkinson of ‘It is Not Over Until It Is Over’ (IINOUIIO) to give us an update on his wool textile recycling (shoddy) business. ‘Shoddy’ is basically the result of shredding unwanted wool items to produce fibres that can be spun or felted in to new items and was very popular during the war as a way of producing low cost items. John has now re-visited the idea due to an increase in demand for recycled and sustainable materials. He visited our guild back in February to give out samples of shoddy for our members to take away and experiment with and give feedback on the results. Check out his website for more information http://www.iinouiio.com.

Several members have been looking in to the issue of diversity and how we can make our meetings more accessible to all. Areas covered include accessibility, accommodating the needs of people with various disabilities, access for children and those with potential childcare needs and investigating potential barriers to minorities such as men, LGBT and people from other ethnicities and religious backgrounds. Again, we welcome feedback from anyone who may have ideas as to how we can improve on any of these areas.

Of course we have not forgotten that this year (the year that cannot be mentioned) is our 60th anniversary and we are determined to celebrate somehow. Members have been working on the ‘Dot’s Diamonds’ pattern for the anniversary diamond themed piece and Dot is now in the stages of putting it all together……watch this space.

As ever, there was an array of members creations with many people taking advantage of the extra time on their hands and pushing their creative boundaries.

As it appears that meetings cannot re-commence any time soon we are welcoming ideas for our monthly Zoom meetings from members. The Bradford Guild have invited York members to join their Zoom meetings and to contact their chair on the e-mail address in the newsletter.

July 2020 Update

So, as yet, there is no sign of us being able to resume meetings any time soon, however, the Zoom meetings have continued, for monthly meetings, the Wednesday evening study group and for committee meetings. A Zoom meeting and group e-mails are being used by the weaving and dyeing groups to keep members in touch too. The embracing of social media and technology is amazing and is playing a big part in keeping people in touch and enabling the sharing of ideas and creations.

For our July meeting Cherry Hardy kindly gave us a sneak preview of her full talk on different styles of Sari’s from India, with information on the materials used, the construction as well as the different occasions that various styles would be worn.

Members are still being encouraged to produce items with a diamond theme for our 60th Anniversary exhibition …… which is now looking like it will be a 61st anniversary instead, but hey ho, better late than never.

We are now also able to offer set days where equipment and books can be borrowed from the museum, this is by prior arrangement and with social distancing rules in place (of course).

Finally …… we cannot ignore this completely accidental pile of fleece which has an uncanny resemblance to the wig of a well known president… you’re welcome.

Chair Update June 2020 – Covid 19

Thank you for visiting our website and I hope you are keeping well in strange times.

All physical meetings of the guild are postponed at present but we are trying to keep actively engaged with members. Meetings will resume once it is considered safe to do so.

Crafts have been shown to be positive for our mental well-being and in lock-down have been a great boon for many. As a guild we are continuing with virtual meetings and study groups. The newsletter will be monthly for now to keep people in touch (from bimonthly).

A screenshot of the guild newsletter

If you are interested in guild activities or wish to contact us about any matters relating to spinning, weaving, dying or fibre related please email us. We remain busy behind the scenes and welcome communication with all.

2020 is our 60th anniversary year, we had hoped to celebrate in style but the party and exhibition have been postponed. We will keep you posted on new dates for the exhibition once we can start planning again.

Speakers Report – Shaun Smith of Harcourt Rare Breeds ‘EARLY SHEEP AND PRIMITIVES’

This Report by Christine Roberts

1These are the unimproved breeds which are found in regions of the country that have remained geographically remote. They have many similar characteristics but have also developed others to suit their locations.

In general, they are smaller, have coloured fleeces and may be horned. They are hardy, lamb easily, produce flavoursome meat and their fleeces are sought after by hand spinners.

Over thousands of years it is likely that some breeds evolved characteristics by interbreeding before becoming isolated when Britain was cut off from continental Europe. Arriving by the route through Europe via the Mediterranean and Atlantic coasts, the Portland shows some characteristics of Roman Merino. A more northerly route was via the Danube corridor, perhaps more mountainous, and the Vikings are sure to have brought sheep of Nordic origin by sea.

As Britain emerged from the Ice Age repeated thawing and freezing through the seasons produced fertile soils which developed into woodland. These were the home of predators and large mammals so sheep (and humans) were pushed to the margins, the coastal belts and uplands where vegetation was more sparse and not as lush.

Comprehensive breed descriptions can be found at www.harcourtrarebreeds.co.uk. I have picked out some characteristics that I found especially interesting.

Portland, a downland sheep with a thick, soft fleece. The single lambs are born with a fox red coat which becomes cream as it matures. 

Soay is the most primitive sheep breed in Britain. Its fleece is roo’d i.e. it is plucked or falls away naturally.

Herdwick, the familiar Lake District sheep, are ‘hefted’. They know their patch of fellside and stay there. Escapees from fields will go on an exploratory saunter before returning ‘home’.

North Ronaldsay have a seaweed diet. As arable farming progressed the sheep were walled out of the central fields onto the island shore. It seems a large part of their diet was already seaweed so they continued to thrive.

Many of the sheep breeds are used for conservation grazing. They will browse on poor grass and tough vegetation so that for example birch trees do not become established. Prime examples are Hebridean and Shetland.

Finally, I wonder whether a book has been written about the Castlemilk Moorit story. It was bred relatively recently on an estate in SW Scotland to have an appealing appearance and good quality coloured fleece. As a regular Countryfile viewer I recognised the name Joe Henson who rescued the few surviving animals on behalf of the RBST.

As a programme of breeding for particular qualities continues there may come a time when we wish to return to the gene pool of unimproved stock to reintroduce lost attributes or to start afresh from pure lines. 

Speaker Report: Dark Textiles – Penny Hemmingway & Dave Hunt

As a preview to her upcoming book Penny gave us an insight into some of the darker elements of the textile hobbies that we all enjoy so much today.

Firstly, Penny talked about many folklore links to textiles, starting with well-known children’s fairy tales in which Rapunzel’s hair is strongly felt to represent the spinning of flax and the spindle on which Sleeping Beauty pricked her finger was thought to be infected by the spinning of raw fleece, causing her to slip into a coma, hence sleeping for 100 years. 

It was also thought that spinning wheels could in fact be ‘bewitched’ and many superstitions arose from that, including the sale of ‘charms’ to ward off evil spirits and the removal of the drive band at night to prevent fairies from using your wheel. The link to witches also came about from distaffs as it is believed that witches actually rode distaffs before broomsticks. The distaff was historically a strong female icon and small cartoons drawn by monks show men being beaten by women with distaffs. 

Penny then told us of the ghost of Sibell Penn who reportedly haunted a historic building following her death. Strange creaking and whirring noises could be heard at night and were traced to a bricked off area, which, when knocked through unveiled a previously unknown room containing an old spinning wheel. 

Disturbingly enough, many women who were murdered in the 19th century had their lives cut short whilst knitting stockings!!!! Although not directly related to their deaths, this fact soon became a common denominator. 

In relation to this we were told that following execution, peoples clothes were often stolen and sold and that even partially completed knitted items could be pawned for money. 

In 1832 Richard Oastler formed a protest about the use of the elderly and children as cheap or even free labour for textile related practices. Oastler felt that a 10 hour day should be the maximum that any child should be required to work and even resorted to teaching the children how to sabotage the factories in order to enforce the new rule. Strangely enough, Oastler showed no such concern over the number of industrial accidents involving children in the mills. 

Finally, Penny talked about the embroideries of Lorina Bulwer who spent much of her life in a workhouse whilst suffering from mental health problems. During her time in the workhouse she produced several large embroideries, using whatever materials she could find, which consisted of long ‘rants’ and contained details of alleged sexual abuse by Dr Richard Pinching. It was reported that Pinching was ordered to seduce a 15 year old girl in 1859, however, no charges were ever brought against him. It wouldn’t be difficult to wonder if the allegations were linked to her ending up with mental health problems. The embroideries are now on display in several museums around the country.

Speakers Report – Freestyle Weaving – Bee Weir

This report from Bev Baldry: –

Bee commenced her talk by asking all guild members to wear one of her hand-made garments which showed a timeline of her weaving progress and the various techniques learned along the way. 

Bee’s weaving journey began on a rigid heddle loom, just mastering the basics before she purchased a 2-shaft Saori loom. Here began her first experiments with clasped weft weaving, inlay and travelling inlay, all of which are weft-based techniques. Bee explained that although weaving on a Saori loom is fast, that to warp one up takes upward of five hours and requires assistance, so back to the rigid heddle loom she went. 

It was once assumed that in order to weave, that specific yarns should be used rather than making use of either commercial knitting yarns or indeed, hand-spun. Ashford challenged this by producing the ‘knitters’ loom, which was a folding rigid heddle loom for added convenience. Bee’s preference for the rigid heddle loom is based on the fact that it is easy to insert chunky feature yarns and also the soft edges that they produce. They can also be used to create double width and double layer fabrics too. 

We were encouraged not to be restricted by the size of our loom as one of Bee’s garments was produced by stitching three sections of weaving together which were each produced on an ‘Ashford Samplit’ loom. Bee explained that the concept of weaving is to produce fabric and if enough air is left in the weaving then the finished fabric will have good drape, which is ideal for making clothes. 

The techniques used to produce the woven fabrics for the garments being modelled by Guild members were explained. They included the use of both cheap, synthetic yarns as well as more expensive animal-based yarns together to produce interesting textures, both warp and weft based experimental techniques, the use of alternating colours to produce patterns and the use of different weight yarns in the warp and weft. Bee’s colour palettes were chosen by placing a selection of coloured yarns together in a bowl that is placed somewhere that she would see it often and subsequently add and remove colours over a matter of days until she was happy with the combination. The construction of the garments is in some ways very simple, as in most cases, no cutting is required. By simply stitching up certain edges of the pieces at certain angles and adding twists, an array of styles can be created. 

Bee also treated us to a tale of her purchase of a 7ft Tri Loom from a stately home which included grossly misinterpreting the word ‘estate’ whilst attempting to find the address of the seller, getting extremely lost (as in 4 hours late lost!!!), not realising that 7ft would not fit in to her car and being banned from warping the loom up in the Travel Lodge that night!!!!!

Bee demonstrated to us that stunning results can be achieved on even the smallest and most basic of rigid heddle looms with a bit of imagination and the effective use of colour, technique and textures.